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We followed Nagi up steep clay steps and along narrow paths to Chenini’s cave-homes, which are constructed in tiers following the geological strata of the cliff. We ducked through a low archway to a small whitewashed courtyard, where his 70-year-old grandmother sat at her loom. She was a startling-looking woman with purple tattoos on her nose and chin, colourful clothes and clanking jewellery. Beyond her, the family ghar had been burrowed into the hillside – cool in summer and warm in winter. A separate cave served as a kitchen, with an ancient electric fridge.
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