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Starters landed so fast we barely had time to take in the glam black-and-white space, with curved booths in tufted white leather and pop-art portraits of hip-hop stars. Lyew’s Caribbean cod fritters ($8) alone would have made us happy; plump with fish and greaseless, they put typical bready specimens to shame. Look out for the mild-looking aioli dip — it’s also laced with those Scotch bonnets, and it deserves a warning label.
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