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One of the most exciting wineries in the region is Querciabella, owned by the charismatic Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni. He is out to prove that strict vegan, biodynamic farming (no fertilisers, no irrigation, not even composts) can reliably produce world-class wines, albeit at low volume; the utterly delicious Batar white is among Italy’s finest and Camartina may be the ultimate Supertuscan red. Producing perfection the hard way means nothing is left to chance; down to the correct glasses to go with the wine (Riedel Vinum Extreme 4444/0) and music (Bach).
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