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The food and drink were far from a horror show – Nova Scotia produces drinkable wines and hoteliers just have to trail their hands in the Atlantic to bring up wonderful lobster, scallops, mussels and halibut, which they serve both largely unadorned and reimagined in chowders, bisques and pasta recipes. In one place, decor and cuisine came together in a glorious synthesis of international quality and style. That place was Trout Point, a wilderness lodge in the western interior where refugees from Louisiana have created a Cajun-Acadian gastronomy of simple excellence. That night I dined on squash blossoms stuffed with beef and crabmeat, sat around a camp fire and watched the merest flickering of the aurora borealis in the northern sky.
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