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Kanpachi âÂÂJamonâ ($17), a multicolored wreath built of watermelon and tomato cubes comes swaddled in sultry ribbons of amberjack âÂÂhamâ dusted and cured in âÂÂVadouvanâ Indian spices. The flavors are a revelation: the tomato is impossibly ripe; the fish an implausible, but instantly logical marriage of land and sea. Like most dishes here, though, itâÂÂs gone in three or four bites.
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